Hidden away out of sight just off the main tourist track, are some lovely small palaces and hunting lodges of erstwhile maharajas. Linked to make up a complete itinerary, they provide a unique experience and exposure to aspects of the country you may not otherwise notice. Reputed to be impregnable, Kumbalgarh stands proudly along the border of Jodhpur and Udaipur. On its massive ramparts six horsemen could ride abreast. To this day, it remains a stern and forbidding sentinel over the countryside. In comparison, Udaipur is soft – a lush oasis in the midst of a harsh land, with gentle waves lapping at the feet of marble palaces. A slow boat ride across the lake reveals the beauty of the city, the richly ornamented havelis that line the banks and the social activity along the ghats. Almost at the gates of Jaipur, the richly decorated and elegantly managed Samode Palace takes you back in time – to when the rhythm of ankle bells beckoned from mirrored halls and soft whispers of intrigue scurried around the zenana. Echoes of the past are drowned by the cacophony of birdsong that carries to the little village of Nimaj overlooking the Chhatra Sagar Dam, while the fort of Devigarh has been innovatively converted into a beautiful boutique hotel with minimal interiors concept and spa and wellness programmes.